Sewing with 2-Way-Stretch Knits
2-way-stretch knits contain spandex.
Cutting and marking" Do not allow the fabric to stretch when cutting and marking. Do not allow it to hand over the edges of the table.
" Do not use pins to secure the pattern. Trim the excess paper along the cutting lines of the pattern, and use weights to keep the pattern from shifting around.
" Mark around the edges with chalk. Lift the pattern out of the way to mark notches and avoid using small nips in the edge to mark them. If you use even the smallest of cuts for notches, the cuts have a nasty habit of "growing" larger.
Sewing
" Use a new sharp needle (not a ball point or universal point). A sharp, violet-band needle, size 10 or 12 in both your sewing machine and serger is recommended. If you are having trouble getting the fabric to feed evenly without bunching when using your serger, try this needle before you replace your cutting blade.
" Serging is best for all seams. If you don’t have a serger, use a small zig zag (1 mm wide and 1.5 mm long) on the sewing machine.
" Use the differential feed on the serger, and the walking foot on the sewing machine. This usually works to tame the slipperiness and uneven feeding of layers.
" If you are finding it hard to get started at the beginning of each seam on the sewing machine, place a lightweight machine embroidery tissue underneath the fabric and hold the thread. Remove the paper gently after you’re done.
" Hemming—what you do depends on where the hem is, and your equipment situation. For all hems, first serge/zig zag the raw edge and mark the hem allowance on the right side of the fabric with chalk. To hem side slits and simple necklines, turn the hem allowance to the inside and sew from the right or wrong side. To hem bottom hemlines and simple necklines, the treatment of choice is to use the twin needle from the right side. Blind hemming works well for hemming bottom edges too. Forget about hand hemming—the fabric is so stretchy the stitches will pop once you’ve worn the garment a couple of times.
Ironing
" Ironing spandex is not recommended. Spandex is heat sensitive, and the fabric easily gets permanent shiny marks on it. If you absolutely must iron, hold the iron above the fabric, give it a shot of steam and finger press it.
Free download compliments of Sewgrand Patterns,
www.sewgrand.com
© 1997 Fashline Designs
Not for commercial use
Sewgrand Patterns
185-9040 Blundell Road, # 272
Richmond, BC, V6Y 1K3
Canada
( Toll-free order line 1-800-252-8872 (Canada and U.S.A.)
Tips for Handling and Sewing Lightweight Soft Fabrics and Soft Transparent Fabrics
Lightweight soft fabrics include crepe de chine and charmeuse. Soft transparent fabrics include chiffon and georgette. They are all fragile and elusive. Follow these tips for easier cutting and handling.
Elusiveness: when cutting out, lay the fabric on a non-slip surface, such as one that is padded or covered with cloth. Or, if the fabric is transparent, trace the required number of pieces onto tracing paper with a pen. Place a single layer of fabric on top making sure the grainlines are properly aligned and the fabric is as straight as you can get it. Cut through the paper and fabric all at once. Hem or sew as soon as possible; allowing the pieces to rest causes the edges to relax and "grow" larger.
" To minimize wobbly seamlines, use a walking foot for even feeding of the layers, and sew slowly for greater accuracy. If the fabric gets pulled below the needle plate, you may need to stitch on top of tracing paper or embroidery paper, removing it carefully afterward.
" Avoid backstitching—use a smaller stitch at the beginning and end of each seam instead.
" Use narrow hems. Included are: the rolled hemmer on your serger/overlock machine, hand rolled hem or narrow machine rolled hem.
" Consider trimming the seam allowances and darts to ¼" (6 mm) on very sheer fabrics. French seaming of seam allowances is another option.
Fragility: use sharp shears or a rotary cutter. Use pattern weights rather than pins. If it is absolutely necessary to use pins, use silk pins and pin only into the seam allowance.
" Use a new needle, Universal Point, Yellow Band, in a smaller size, such as 60/8 to 70/10.
" Use a loosely balanced thread tension.
" Iron with a low temperature. Sheer and lightweight fabrics are easily damaged by hot ironing.
" Avoid excessive handling and unpicking of seams.
Free download compliments of Sewgrand Patterns, www.sewgrand.com
© 1997 Fashline Designs
Not for commercial use
Sewgrand Patterns
185-9040 Blundell Road, # 272
Richmond, BC, V6Y 1K3
Canada
( Toll-free order line 1-800-252-8872 (Canada and U.S.A.)
One Grand Scrunchie™
This scrunchie is great for thick hair.
Fabric and Notions
¼ yd (.25 m) of medium weight knit fabric
10 to 12" (25 to 30 cm) elastic, ¼" (6 mm) wide
Instructions
Cut your fabric into a piece 8 1/2" (22 cm) X 29" (74 cm). If you plan to make a lot of scrunchies, it’s probably worth it to cut out a cardboard template to this size, and chalk around the edges to mark your fabric.
With right sides together, fold the piece in half length-wise. Serge or use a small zig-zag on the sewing machine along the long edge, using a ¼" (6 mm) seam allowance. Turn right side out.
Insert the elastic through the middle of the scrunchie and tie the elastic together with a secure knot. You might want to experiment a little with the the proper length of elastic for your hair. Cut off the extra length of the elastic, leaving a "tail" of approx. 1" (2.5 cm).
You now have a "sausage" shape. Sew the right sides together, with a ¼" (6 mm) seam allowance . Sew as far as you can, twisting the fabric out of the way as you sew. Turn right side out through the unstitched gap.
Fold the seam allowance of the unstitched edge to the inside, and edge stitch the opening together from the right side, through all layers.
Suggestions
Experiment with other fabrics, and be aware the dimensions of the fabric piece you start out with will change with each type of fabric. Heavier knits require smaller dimensions, and sheer fabrics require larger dimensions.
Free download compliments of Sewgrand Patterns, www.sewgrand.com
© 1997 Fashline Designs
Not for commercial use
Sewgrand Patterns
185-9040 Blundell Road, # 272
Richmond, BC, V6Y 1K3
Canada
( Toll-free order line 1-800-252-8872 (Canada and U.S.A.)